The closest to full maturity and farthest along in its evolution appears to be the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon RBS Beckstoffer To- Kalon Vineyard. Notes of pen ink, creosote, tar, black currants and Christmas fruitcake jump from the glass of this dense ruby/purple-colored effort, which is showing less color saturation than its three siblings. Full-bodied and ripe with soft tannins, good freshness and liveliness, there is no reason to defer your gratification.

Intense and well-built, with vibrant, youthful notes of currant, dried herb, cedar and crushed rock. The tannins are starting to dry around the edges, so now is a good time to catch this at a nice plateau.